The Untold History of the San Andres Islands

Staff writer Angieet speaks about the value of making local connections when traveling.

Article: Angieet

Illustrations: Hanna Ramirez

San Andrés Islands is an archipelago on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. It is a place where going to church every Sunday is considered a sacred act. San Andrés covers an area of 27 square kilometers.The island itself is a natural wonder, and today I see shades of blue, green, and even a touch of lilac in the sea. The area is also known as the "sea of seven colors" due to the range of hues it encompasses, ranging from deep blue to aquamarine green. The climate is tropical, with an average temperature around 27°C (81°F) throughout the year.

The indigenous "raizal" ethnicity has a 400 year history in the San Andrés Archipelago. Today their descendants, who are now of indigenous, European, and African heritage, have their own distinct lingual and spiritual influence on the community. Music and dance have been the cultural expressions that have most contributed to the island's character. The population enjoys genres like polka, mazurka, waltz, quadrille, and schottische. Sounds of the guitar, bandola, accordion, maracas, and occasionally, the violin, are not uncommon as you explore the island.

I once met a very kind lady when I traveled to San Andres. It happened one day as I was walking with my aunt. She was sitting outside of her house, selling seashells. My approach marked the beginning of a pleasant conversation, during which she shared a bit about her life on the beautiful island.

Mrs. Victoria is a native of the island, and had been living on that same plot of land for 64 years."I was born in this yard. We stayed here because all this land belonged to my grandfather. He handed it over to my mother before he passed away, and Mom had us build houses for my siblings and me, so we could all stay in one place and not be scattered. When I was little, I played a lot with my siblings and cousins. We stayed out until midnight playing hide and seek. It was so much fun for us."

Mrs. Victoria is around 1.6 (5’2”), with short gray hair and a warm smile. I am traveling back to the past with her. She tells me how, when she was young, the island was covered with orange trees. Exporting oranges and cotton to Nicaragua was the basis of the island's economy.

"But then, out of nowhere, houses started being built, and the cotton and orange fields started disappearing."

As Mrs. Victoria tells her story, her face carries both nostalgia and joy as she recalls her past. She tells us about her family; her strict father who made sure the family always made it to church, her older brother that died mysteriously, and her paternal-grandfather that she never met. She recounts the histories that are typically unseen by people who are only passing through the island. She shared with us how she survived Hurricane Iota, an unprecedented category 4 storm that struck the island in 2020.

“I don't remember exactly what time it was, but what I do remember is that we were all at home when suddenly we started hearing very strong winds. We were very scared, but we managed to stay calm. The roof of the house across the street flew off. Part of the wall of the house collapsed because the sea-facing wall hit it with great force, creating [a] hole. It was a difficult night for all of us, but we always trusted in God. I remember that the next day, I couldn't open the door of my house because of all the sand that had accumulated at the entrance. With the help of some neighbors, I managed to get out. I'm very thankful that no one in my family was injured."

The culture of San Andrés Islands is magical and unique in Colombia. While enjoying the sun, beach, and nature during your visit, discovering the culture of the islands takes your journey to a higher level. This story shows how beautiful it is to get to know a place, not only for its beautiful beaches and landscapes but also for its culture, cuisine, and people.